The Barnes Foundation

There is a brand new building just off of the Ben Franklin Parkway that houses an incredible collection, one which is likely to grow into an attraction just as large as that other city landmark, the Philadelphia Museum of Art. Philadelphia is on the rise as a world art attraction, and the Barnes is part of the reason why.

Exterior rendering of the Barnes' new parkway location.

The New Barnes:

Previously housed in a manse-like setting off of City Avenue (still used as archiving/restoration facilities, and grounds/sculpture garden still open to visitors), the bulk of the collection now has a home on museum row, across the highway from the Franklin Institute and within sight of the hulking Museum of Art. You could almost miss the place walking past it on the parkway side, hidden as it is behind trees and with minimal signage. Approaching from the parkway, a gravel walk leads you past soothing water features and toward the ticket office, which is housed in a separate building on the grounds. From there a path surrounded by shallow reflecting pools leads visitors to the imposing, unmarked doors.

Past an initial security check you come to a crossroads; to your immediate left are stairs leading down to coat check, flawless bathrooms, gift shop, cafe, and library. If you stray just past the stairs, a guard will usher you around a corner into a massive room, nearly empty but for some soft benches scattered about like fallen dominos. Find your way past them, have your ticket scanned (perhaps pausing to pick up an audio tour guide first), and you're in.

The honey-colored gallery will beckon you forward, but don't forget to take notice of the stairs to your right and elevator to your left; when you're done downstairs, there is a whole second floor to explore.

The collection you will see once belonged to Albert C. Barnes, a Philadelphia-raised chemist who grew his fortune by developing and selling a drug to battle gonorrhoea in the days before antibiotics. Luckily he used his powers for good and began amassing impressionist and modernist pieces at an astonishing rate. The collection really is world-class: how many places have nearly 200 works by Renoir (181, to be exact), alongside the likes of Cezanne, Degas, Picasso, Van Gogh, Matisse, Modigliani, Gauguin, Monet, Manet....(I could go on). Luckily, though, there are other works sprinkled in: some pre-Renaissance pieces from Europe, ancient Chinese and Japanese paintings, and more. We were particularly impressed with some Egyptian and Roman artifacts that we found upstairs, some of them impossibly old.

Our experience:

Our afternoon at the Barnes Foundation was like stepping back in time a whole year; last August, Tony and I were exploring the art museums of Amsterdam, taking in Dutch masters and Van Gogh. The Barnes, however, was mercifully much less crowded than the Van Gogh or Rijksmuseum, and we were actually able to be seated for a while and absorb everything around us. The galleries are bright and airy and painted a reflective yellowish hue, and there was a sense of serenity and calm in each room. The staff was friendly and helpful; one passing security guard even complimented Tony's shoes! We did have to navigate around some guided tours, but eavesdropping in on them to get some more details was fun and worth the trouble. Plus, you can explore the galleries in whatever order you like; if a tour crowds one room, and you prefer silent observation, you can always circle back.

We did not sample the cafe or library, but we inspected the gift shop; I couldn't find a magnet to my liking (I collect them) but there are lots of books, prints, jewelry, and other items, priced about the same as the PMOA.

Getting there:

We walked from the 18th & JFK Suburban Station exit. If taking regional rail, opt to get off at Suburban as opposed to 30th Street. If you're not up for the walk, a cab ride from nearby won't cost you much. If you do walk, you'll get to enjoy the fountains at Logan Square (skip Love Park; it's overrated in my opinion, always crowded, and dirty).

If driving, you'll have to look around for a garage; I don't believe the Barnes has one of its own.

Other things to know:

• Timed tickets are highly encouraged and can be purchased online ahead of your visit. You can also call ahead to reserve tickets or a spot in a guided tour at 215-278-7200.
• The museum is closed on Tuesdays, but is open late Friday nights to make up for those lost hours. Regular hours the rest of the week are 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.



A peek into one of the Barnes' main first-floor galleries

• Student admission is just $10! If you are out of school but still have your student ID around somewhere, tuck it into your wallet for this trip. Unless, of course, you buy online, in which case you won't be required to show it. They'll scan your ticket and send you on your way.
• There is a size limit on the bags that you can carry into the gallery. I was annoyed when told I would have to check mine, but the bag check was free of charge, and you can take with you a clear plastic bag to hold your wallet, phone, and anything else with which you are unwilling to part.

Overall, I'd classify the Barnes as a dont-miss; even in its original building the collection appears in the book 1000 Places to See Before You Die; in its new digs,  it's now even more of a destination.

The Barnes Foundation

www.barnesfoundation.org

2025 Benjamin Franklin Parkway

Philadelphia, PA 19130

215-278-7000

OR

300 North Latch's Lane

Merion, PA 19066

215-278-7350