In Amsterdam: The Rijksmuseum

Warhol's portrait of Queen Beatrix of Holland.

Located (where else?) in Amsterdam's Museum District, The Rijksmuseum these days is the greatest hits album to the museum's massive collection. The real Rijksmuseum, a massive, ornamented brick palace surrounded by gardens, was when we were there closed off by scaffolding and chain link fence, inaccessible due to the massive renovations currently in full swing. When we visited, a mere wing of the museum was open, though it housed more masterpieces than many museums can boast of their entire collections. And until April of this year you will have to enter as we did, through a glass entryway on the side of the building, on the same street that leads to the Van Gogh museum just a few blocks away.

Contained in this small (comparatively speaking) wing, along with some historical artifacts from old Holland and its many colonies, a suitably large display of Delftware, and a Warhol portrait of Queen Beatrix, is a mind-boggling display of works from the Dutch masters, including Vermeer, De Hooch, and Rembrandt. A small collection, perhaps, but a mighty one.

Tony and I gratefully handed over our backpacks when we got there, free to browse the museum unburdened and out of the gaze hot summer sun. We began our tour on the lower level of the wing, where we took in artifacts of Holland's colonial past; relics from sea voyages to foreign lands, and furniture from the homes Dutch settlers built for themselves when they got there. This included some historical information of course, but we made our way through these early galleries rather quickly, eager to see what we had come for.

The Delftware Gallery which followed was a pleasant surprise; when one thinks of Delftware, one things of plates and platters, teacups and saucers. Well, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the Dutch could make just about anything out of this distinctive china: whole dining services of course, but also intricate, animal-shaped vases, furniture adorned with ivory and Mother of Pearl, and even a Delftware violin! I'm not sure the sound quality would be quite that of a wooden violin; even so, I'm sure the tone would be quite different.

Once we had exhausted the lower galleries, we took a bathroom break and then ascended to the upper level via a bright, sunny stairway; when we got the top, we were rewarded by the sight of Queen Beatrix's regal stare, via Andy Warhol.

And then, we found ourselves face to face with the Old Masters. You may tire of still lifes fairly quickly, but here at least are some still lifes backed up by familiar, legendary names: De Hooch, Rembrandt. We see scenes of hunting spoils, kitchen supplies, and other necessities. There are also portraits galore, of prosperous people who would have been long forgotten but for these likenesses in oil. We see Rembrandt age through his self portraits, and see the faces he was surrounded by. And Rembrandt's massive masterpiece, "The Night Watch," enjoys a room almost entirely to itself.

It may not be apparent to everyone who knows me how much I enjoy Vermeer's work, but as mentioned in the Delft post, I discovered the artist in my mid-teens, when Tracy Chevalier's "Girl with a Pearl Earring" immersed me in the painter's world. When I came face to face with the girl in The Hague back in 2008, I stood breathlessly before her, feeling almost too meek to look her in the eye. So when, in the Riijksmuseum, I found myself presented with FOUR of Vermeer's works, I had to take some deep breaths. On display here are: "The Milkmaid," "The Little Street," "Woman Reading a Letter," and "The Love Letter." And once the hordes of people moved on to the next room, I got to have a little time alone with each of them, more so than I had had with my beloved girl. 

Vermeer's "The Milkmaid," at the Riijksmuseum

Other authors can tell you more about Vermeer's techniques, the themes and metaphors in his work, etc. All I will tell you is that these are pristine scenes of ordinary life, each one a snapshot of an ordinary day in the lives of ordinary people, brought to life with layers of deep, vibrant colors and a superb capture of natural light. And for that, I not only respect the work for its technical aspects, but for the peace I feel in gazing at it, and a longing for a simpler time.

After the darkness of "The Night Watchman's" gallery, visitors make their way into, what else, the gift shop. You can buy almost anything featuring the works in this collection: journals, prints, erasers, stuffed toys, even umbrellas. And just in case you resist temptation but can't shake the thought of that Vermeer pencil case long after you've left, you can always go online and order from there.

By the way, the museum's website is incredible; it not only provides information about visiting the museum, and what you can find there, but you can also search the collection by keyword, artist, etc. Once you've found the work you want, you are presented with options: zoom in and take in the work's details, share your find on Twitter, Facebook or Pinterest, download it for wallpaper, print it for a craft project, or even order professional prints of it right from the same screen. If you're not looking for anything specific, browse the collection at random. My Rijskstudio allows you to do all of this, and also allows you to make your own boards there, in the style of Pinterest and organized any way you'd like, using objects from the collections. Whether you are artistically inclined or are just an appreciator with little artistic talent, as I am, I guarantee you can spend hours getting lost on the website.

And speaking of hours getting lost, the full museum is set to reopen on Saturday, April 13; naturally, less than a year after we visited. The renovations have taken 10 years and have included massive restorations of the existing building and galleries. The renovation will also allow for full access to the museum's 20th century collection, as well as its celebrated fashion gallery, and include a new Asian pavilion and renovated gardens. What I wouldn't give for it to have been finished last summer!

But you, my friends, if you were considering a visit to Amsterdam, here have all the knowledge you need to make a wise decision: buy your tickets, but make sure you'll be going after April 13! Really, go. It's well worth it.

All photos taken by me, all text written by me. Please credit.