In Paris: Le Sainte-Chapelle

Notre Dame didn't really do it for me. There, I said it. Yes, I can check it off in my copy of "1000 Places to See Before You Die" (of which I've seen about 40), and I thought the gargoyles were pretty cool, but I wasn't moved. I wasn't blown away. As I was to find out just a few days later, Notre Dame, for me at least, couldn't hold a 3-Euro prayer candle to Saint Chapelle.

Well now (to the left). See what I mean?
(All photos on this post by me, by the way)

Before we get into too much detail, here's the thing about Saint Chapelle. If you don't want to wait in line, get there early Very, very early. Katie and I got there by 9:30, I believe, and we waited for almost an hour. And the place is easy to miss; the line blocks most of the signage.

Once off the street (about an hour after joinin the queue), we had to go through security, We walked through a metal detector and had our bags x-rayed; my water bottle almost met its doom before Katie explained to the guard what it was! This is beacause right next door is the Palais de Justice, which was once the seat of the French monarchy but whose modern function I don't exactly remember at the moment. It's important, I'm sure, hence all the hubbub. But here's a picture of me in front of it after we left the chapel, trying my best to look Parisian.

After security, we were free to walk out into the courtyard; once there, I found myself wondering where all of the people had gone! The line in front of us had been pretty substantial, yet I only saw a dozen or so people milling around. The chapel I found myself approaching is much smaller than any other places of worship I had entered on this trip; in fact, it looked positively tiny by contrast. I took in the faded gray sides of the building, including the crumbling gargoyles resting at its base, and wondered why Katie had been so eager to bring me here. But then, we paid our admission, and I found myself here:

Then, I could see why. The colors! The details!

The lower chapel is dedicated to the Virgin Mary; her plinth stands at the center of the nave. Fleur-de-lis are everywhere on this level, as they represent the royal family of France, and the chapel was commissioned by 12th-century royalty. You can see here that much of the place still needs to be restored; many of the frescoes are crumbling, and the glass is dirty. But restorations have come a long way, as you can see from the brilliant gold features of the room. There was an impressive selection of souveniers here for so small an attraction, which he poked and prodded but didn't buy. Then it was up, up, all the way up a winding staircase to the second floor.

And here we have the upper sanctuary, with its 13 stained glass windows chronicling the full biblical story of humanity, from Genesis through Christ's crucifixion. 

It took my breath away. After several seconds of turning in a circle with my mouth no doubt hanging open, I found myself facing Katie, who laughed as she said, "that's the reaction I was looking for."

The windows on one side of the chapel have been fully cleaned, while on the other side, you can clearly see the grime that needs to be carefully wiped away. But it was here that I had the moment I had expected to feel in Notre Dame: feeling very small, yet full of light.

Fun facts:
1. The entire chapel contains 6,456 square feet of that brilliantly colorful stained glass.
2. The chapel is open 9:30-6:00 nearly every day of the year; it closes only for New Year's Day, May 1 (anyone care to explain that?) and Christmas Day.
3. Admission is €5.50 ; Red.: €3.50 ; Group: €4.50.
4. Commissioned by King Louis IX to house such precious relics as the crown of thorns (supposedly), Saint Chapelle (literally meaning "the holy chapel") was constructed around 1240 and consecrated in 1248.
5. Most of the chapel is a reconstruction, following periods of disrepair and several fires; additionally, the windows of the lower chapel had to be completely replaced after the Seine flooded it in the 1800s.

The upper sanctuary is captivating, but you also need to tear your eyes away from the stained glass and take time to enjoy the details on both levels:

I think the little gargoyle dude is my favorite thing ever. He looks like the pet I would have if I were a medeival/Gothic villain. And his face! He looks so distressed! I just want to comfort him!

...Anyway.

Here's my suggestion. Get up early, take the number four line to Sainte-Michel/Notre Dame, and get in line for Saint Chapelle. The morning light breaking through the stained glass of the upper sanctuary is the perfect way to start a day in Paris. Even if Christianity isn't your chosen faith, you'll feel something in there. I did. And there will always be time for Notre Dame.