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As you may or may not know, I had never been to France before this trip. When everyone else went to Paris back in October of 08, Laura and I opted to go to the Netherlands; and so it was that I missed my chance to see Paris. It was definitely a good decision; we had a wonderful time in Holland and were spoiled rotten by my dear friends Deirdre and Co. A couple of my friends who went to Paris the autumn came back with assertions that they hadn't liked it at all. Well, I can assure you, dear readers, that I liked Paris very much. I think seeing Paris for the first time in the spring, as opposed to the autumn, made a world of difference for me.Notre Dame
This world-famous cathedral was located just a few blocks' walk from Katie's apartment. There was a long line to get in, but it moved quickly, as you don't have to pass any security checkpoints. Photography is allowed and entry is free, though hats must be removed and shoulders must be covered. Once inside, I'll admit my reaction was less than reverent; I recall thinking to myself: "Eh, St. John the Divine is Bigger." And then I recall thinking "I can't believe I just thought that." Notre Dame is definitely impressive, don't get me wrong; but it is dark and crowded and rather loud, and I didn't get any real sense of godliness in there. Let me assert once more that is is a beautiful, impressive cathedral and I am very glad to have wandered within and around it. It just didn't do it for me in the way that Saint Chapelle would later. Stay tuned for that.
This was a real treat. Stacks upon stacks of books of all varieties, though most of them in English. Old books, new editions, classics, contemporary, poetry, fiction, nonfiction. The whole place felt like the home of a wealthy eccentric who had chosen to live life pressed in by knowledge on all sides; but in a good way. Books were stacked on shelves across doorways, up and down tiny, twisty, staircases; everywhere! In various corners we found cot beds (some travelers of the starving artist variety are allowed to sleep there overnight, for a tiny fee), pianos, sinks, small chairs, globes...it was wonderful.
Jardine de Luxembourg
A great place to spend a sunny day: grassy lawns, benches, tables and chairs, ice cream carts, tulips, long paths between tall hedges, and a pond to sail tiny, motorized boats on, all in the shadow of a former palace. What more could you want?
The American Cathedral
This is where Katie attends English-spoken services nearly every Sunday morning. I tagged along with her the Sunday I was there, which happened to be Palm Sunday. The congregation is an eclectic mix of American and British ex pates, native French-speakers and English-learners. Katie had a conversation with a man in the pew behind us who said he isn't terribly religious, but likes to come to the services to practice his English comprehension. I consider myself more of an agnostic than anything, but I was brought up attending Methodist and Presbyterian services, and I tagged along for curiosity's sake; plus, I can now say that I've been to a church service in a cathedral! Can you? The service was somewhat dark, being Palm Sunday and all, and I listened rather uncomfortably to the account of Jesus' last days. But the choir and organ music was beautiful, and afterward we stepped out into a beautiful French morning flooded with sunshine, and took our palms for a walk along the Seine.
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| The be-domed Sacre Coeur, flooded with sightseers |
To me, this cathedral was much more beautiful than Notre Dame. I think the atmosphere was a big help; you are not allowed to take photographs inside, and everyone speaks in hushed tones, enforced by the presence of shushing clergymen stationed around every corner. As a result, the cathedral comes across as much more imposing. It is also much more light and airy, a result of the multitude of stained glass windows as well as the lighter colored stone from which it is constructed. I did feel some reverence here.
Sacre Coeur is located in Montemarte (see below), but be aware that to reach it from the closest Metro stop, you will have to fight your way through a flood of tourists, gypsies, and peddlers. If anyone approaches you with a clipboard, simply tell them "merci, non" or simply "NON," and push past them. Don't let them stop you. Parisian gypsies have thought of plenty of ways to try and steal your money, and they'll get mean sometimes. One of them tried to grope Katie, but was foiled by her well-placed elbow. If traveling in a group, stick together. There are also African men who try to stop you to a tie a string bracelet around your wrist, saying that it's to raise awareness for the issues in their country; but they never specify which country. Use the same approach as with the gypsies, because if you let them stop you they'll charge you for the bracelet, and they'll get mean if you say no. Pull your arms in to your sides and keep walking.
It's a long climb up the stairs, but if you're there on a warm day, fear not; on every landing you'll find salesmen with buckets full of water and cans of beer. The view from the steps of Sacre Coeur is incomporable; ignore the tourists and salesmen and take it all in.
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| A gaggle of artists in Montemartre |
Considered one of Paris' artsier neighborhoods (and that's saying something), Montemarte is nestled onto the hillside upon which Sacre Coeur powerfully stands. There is a square entirely full of artists selling their paintings and sketches, and I witnessed many artists doing charcoal sketches for willing patrons. It is also a thriving center for music and food. One indoor restaurant had a pianist performing just inside the door, so that the music drifted out into the street; there was a tiny cafe on a quieter street whose dining area's only roof was a lattice of ivy and fragrant wisteria. It was so beautiful that we were tempted to sit down, even though we weren't hungry; however, one look at the prices on the menu banished that thought from our minds. There are many touristy shops here but they're a bit cheaper than the ones in the city center, so if you're looking for postcards, magnets, those delicious violet-flavored candies, etc; this is the place to get them! And if you've got some (okay a lot of) money burning a hole in your pocket, get your portrait done. Otherwise, wander a couple of blocks from the tourist trap shops and take in the houses covered in ivy, the apartment buildings with breathtaking views, and a crepe or two.
You really can't appreciate how big the Eiffer Tower is until you get close to it. And I mean, really close. You can stand beneath it and look straight upwards into the belly of the beast. I did not go up inside of it; for one thing, the line is extremely long and for another, my view of Paris from Sacre Coer was free! But I won't judge you if you decide to go up. I'll keep my feet on the ground, thanks.
All of that was done on a Saturday and a Sunday, by the way. Squeezed in quite a lot, didn't we?
I was going to write about Versailes and Saint Chapelle in here, but I think I'll dedicate a separate blog post to that experience. After all it took a whole day, and the pictures themselves are well worth it! Look for an update on the food of Paris as well!
