In Derbyshire: Chatsworth

Main hall of Chatsworth/Austen's Pemberley

Hello from London! The city's kicking my butt- I've done SO much in the last few days, and I've loved it all. But I can't tell you about it now, since I have to pay for wifi at my hostel. For now, content yourselves with Chatsworth.

The journey to Chatsworth yesterday was two and a half hours' drive through beautiful countryside: we spent a good portion of time speeding past the slightly flatter farmland of Warwickshire. Proclaimed on the signs as the "land of Shakespeare," it is home to Stratford-on-Avon and Warwick Castle, which are both wonderful places to visit; I was there in 2008. Once through there, we made our way over the pastoral, hilly beauty of Derbyshire, home to the Peak District. We barely touched the district, but I did glimpse some tall, moorish hills, their brown grasses fluttering in the wind. We got a little turned around near Chesterfield (literally, in a roundabout), but some helpful signs pointed the way to the estate.



Georgiana Spencer in her twenties



 Honestly, I can't say that my visit to Chatsworth was entirely as glorious as I had hoped. Don't get me wrong: I had a wonderful time. Chatsworth is an absolutely beautiful home, if a bit gaudy for my tastes, and the grounds are breathtaking. But I guess I was waiting for my "Elizabeth Bennet at Pemberley" moment, and it never quite came. I was immediately disappointed by the scaffolding and white plastic covering an entire facade of the main house; it was a glaring anachronism, a giant blotch on the face of the historical scene I'd imagined. I didn't feel like Lizzy at all.

That being said, there were some pleasant surprises. For instance, there were some quirky bits of art in the house I hadn't expected; the collection is very eclectic. About halfway through the house, I was absolutely thrilled to find myself face to face with Georgiana Spencer; or rather, two very famous portraits of her. I also got to look into the eyes of her husband and his lover/her friend, the controversial Lady Elizabeth Foster. I became captivated with Georgiana and her love triangle after seeing Keira Knightley's portrayal of her in the 2008 film "The Duchess." I later read Amanda Foreman's wonderful biography "Georgiana," which delves much deeper into Georgiana's tumultuous life than I was prepared for; the movie barely makes ripples on the surface.


View of lower stone garden, where Dukey surely plays!

 Another pleasant surprise was the large stone garden set back on the grounds. Charlotte and I decided this must be where the duke plays; clearly, he spends his day off perched on the rocks pretending to shoot at tourists; and in a cowboy costume. Sounds plausible, right?


We lunched in the estate's Farmhouse Restaurant before heading back out to explore the grounds; the weather had turned breezy and cloudy, and I was pretty cold in my dress and cardigan. Luckily, though, things brightened up and we were able to enjoy the grounds in all their green, leafy glory, until it was time to go home. I looked back over my shoulder and glared at the scaffolding as we drove away until the building was out of sight- so much for Pemberley.


All in all, I'd stil llike to come back someday; especially when that damn scaffolding is removed!